Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly astonished.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.
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